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PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 5879
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Working with Resin


My grap gun is the first resin kit I've ever done, so I'm wondering, what are the best adhesives and putties to use with it?

I'm assuming superglue and two part epoxies for adhesives, is that correct? I'm thinking two-part epoxies would be better since the parts for this thing are bulkier than average.

Milliput isnt very easily available in my area. Would 2 part epoxy putties, like AquaMend, or FastSteel, bond to the resin? How about Bondo Auto Body filler?

Thanks guys. :cheers

Last edited by Deadly Lemur, 3/29/2006, 10:56 pm


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Patrick
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12/27/2005, 9:02 pm Link to this post Send Email to PatrickJ   Send PM to PatrickJ
 
Blackwood Bat Profile
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Registered: 02-2004
Location: ummm...the Batcave
Posts: 6009
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Re: Working with resin?


Quote:

I was going to say that the dials could be made more flush with the surface of the gun by adding a layer of putty to each side and shaping it, but there's a hex bolt on each side of the gun as well as the series of pill-shaped holes adjacent to the black grip pads, which would need to be resculpted in order to be flush with the new surface. If one thinks it's worth the trouble that could be done, but I dont think it is. Making them bigger is definitely not possible.


Patrick,this is a quote from you in another thread about accurizing the gun.

Is this why you want to know?
If so,don't use putty,but use sheet styrene instead,then putty the seams an reshape.

If not,please disregard. :lol

On the other hand,I've done tons of resin kits and it's real easy to work with. Feel free to add sculpey and bake it if you want,Squadron putty or most other puttys work great and sanding to a glass finish can be achieved when neccessary and yes,superglues and two part epoxies work great.
Be aware that if glue seeps out of a seam,it will be harder to sand that area. The resin sands down easier than the glue so be careful. A little glue goes a long way with resin.

I prefer Krylon gray primer and Krylon paints as for spray paint and any acrylic craft paint or model paint,such as Tamiya.

You shouldn't have any problems. :wink

John :flapbat

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"Wile E. Coyote is my reality,Bugs Bunny is my goal."

12/27/2005, 9:31 pm Link to this post Send Email to Blackwood Bat   Send PM to Blackwood Bat
 
PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 5879
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Re: Working with resin?


 :doh

Well, that wasnt originally why I asked, but yes styrene would obviously be better for that than putty. I don't know why I didnt think of that when I said that. :p Now that you mention using sheet styrene for that I just might consider doing it.

I was asking about the putty because I noticed some red putty had been used on the kit by its previous owner, and for some reason it didnt seem to stick very well inside the resin bubbles or sand in the same way as the rest of the resin when I was sanding and shaping it.

Thanks John. :)

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Patrick
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Flash Dixon Profile
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Dark Knight

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Springfield, Mo.
Posts: 828
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Re: Working with resin?


I like to use super glue in combination with pinning the larger surfaces. I've always found epoxy too messy for my tastes. As for putty, I use a product called Magic Sculpt. It dries rock hard, can be sanded and even scribed, and will not shrink. I've had trouble in the past with Squadron Putty shrinking after a few months.

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12/28/2005, 11:28 pm Link to this post Send Email to Flash Dixon   Send PM to Flash Dixon
 
PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 5879
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Re: Working with resin?


Sculpey will stick to resin?

What about baking it? will the heat damage the resin? And will it continue to stick to the resin after baking?

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Patrick
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12/28/2005, 11:58 pm Link to this post Send Email to PatrickJ   Send PM to PatrickJ
 
Blackwood Bat Profile
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Registered: 02-2004
Location: ummm...the Batcave
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Re: Working with resin?


Yes,Sculpey sticks,but sometimes you gotta work in there.
Yes,you can bake it after,no it won't damage it and yes it will still stick after,BUT you can also ad some superglue to the seam/joint for strength.
You can use a heat gun too,which might be better if you're only adding small amounts of Sculpey.

If you're doing this for the grapple gun,putty should be just fine for any airholes and such.

Resin is recommended to be baked after it's cured anyway,but nobody really does,so it will only help strengthen it.

 
Quote:

I've had trouble in the past with Squadron Putty shrinking after a few months.


This has never happened to me and I start sanding only a half hour after it's been applied. I've put a primer coat on after only an hour or two and have never had any problem,however I don't doubt you.
The green dries faster than white,but sometimes the white is better.


John :flapbat

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"Wile E. Coyote is my reality,Bugs Bunny is my goal."

12/29/2005, 4:13 pm Link to this post Send Email to Blackwood Bat   Send PM to Blackwood Bat
 
PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 5879
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Re: Working with resin?


ok, this question is for anyone who has the begins grap gun kit. What kind of resin is this? What brand name, type, etc. Also, where would I find this resin for my own casting projects?

I have a few other modeling projects I want to attempt and this would be perfect.

Thanks.

Last edited by PatrickJ, 12/31/2005, 9:47 pm


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