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PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 5879
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Case Molding Tutorial


I'm looking to cast resin copies of that "Hush" style grappling hook I showed off a long time ago, and I'm thinking case molding is the way to go. I can't find the tutorial you had for case molding anymore. Do you still have it by chance?

Image

I accidentally broke one of the hooks off the main body today while drilling a hole in the back end for the "shank", for lack of a better term, I guess. :frown I finally decided that after I rebuild it I'd make solid, non-folding copies, instead of ones made from fragile rocket parts. :p

Last edited by Deadly Lemur, 4/15/2006, 11:26 pm


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Patrick
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1/26/2006, 3:30 pm Link to this post Send Email to PatrickJ   Send PM to PatrickJ
 
clevelandfx Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Cleveland, Oh
Posts: 1891
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


Well, I have my bad one

I know I have a link to at lest 1 other one someplace.

I'll dig it up and post back if mine's too bad.

{edit: btw birchman :wink , if that's a cardboard tube in the middle you will probably want to spray it with something to make it a bit more moisture proof. same goes for the fins too. let me take a few minutes to think about how I would tackle that mold and get back to you. end of edit.}

Tom

Last edited by clevelandfx, 1/27/2006, 1:35 am


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PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


Well, once I rebuild it, I was thinking that sandable automobile primer would make it moisture proof.

Would that work?

Also, what kind of clay is that?

Also, what are those things standing on the grenades with what look like some kind of bracket resting on the grenade itself(looks also like you layered the clay over them too)?

I'm not quite understanding all thats going on. :p


Also, with the complex shape of the hook, is a case mold really the best way to go? or a skin mold? I'm lost.

Last edited by PatrickJ, 1/27/2006, 11:40 pm


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1/27/2006, 11:36 pm Link to this post Send Email to PatrickJ   Send PM to PatrickJ
 
clevelandfx Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Cleveland, Oh
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


The primer should be enough I think.

The clay is just a cheap water based clay I get from a couple places here and in Pittsburgh. It runs 7 cents a pound and they call it horseshoe pit clay. Was talking to one of the guys and it's basically R&D stuff they can't sell as other clay I guess.

these Image

They're registration and pour holes. The "band" will fit into a groove in the stone to keep it in place, the cylinders will allow the silicone to be poured in to make the mold.


Yeah, I was thinking about it, a case would be OK, but a glove mold might be better. if you're using silicone, mix up some with fast catalyst, paint it on with a brush, let it gel or set (DON'T TOUCH IT WITH YOU SKIN, the oils might keep the next layer from sticking) then mix up some silicone with a little fast catalyst or a thixotropic (thickening liquid) and some cab-o-sil and spatula that on trying to keep it as smooth as possible to get an even thickness. Build a shell with whatever, plaster, fiberglass, plasti-paste (smooth-on product). Flip it over, vaseline the silicone and repeat.

The biggest problem I see with casting it is a pour or injection hole, and possibly vents. If it was me, I might just make a big shaped "box mold" from the side it'd look like this Image

and from the top like this Image

To make it, get some clay (something soft) and build up a wall, with keys, then build your box and seal the edges with hot glue so the silicone doesn't leak out. mix up silicone and pour in. Let set, remove box carefully and set aside. make a shell over that to help from deforming the silicone while casting 2 parts would be good probably. flip it over, remove the clay, clean any off the hook, and silicone, vaseline the silicone build (or reuse the box) and repeat the steps for this part. Demold. cast and enjoy.

Sorry, I really do suck at trying to "teach" over the net.

other are more then welcome to jump in here if you can explain things better. :pray

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1/28/2006, 2:03 am Link to this post Send Email to clevelandfx   Send PM to clevelandfx
 
BigBadBat Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 11-2004
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


I saved this link a while back. Dunno if it will help you.

http://www.danperezstudios.com/workshoppages/molding_casting.htm
1/28/2006, 8:19 am Link to this post Send Email to BigBadBat   Send PM to BigBadBat
 
clevelandfx Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Cleveland, Oh
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


BBB you get a prize! That's the link I was trying to find. I know it's here someplace, but just couldn't find it. :cheers

That should be a bit more of a help on a box type mold, making walls and keys.

Also, if this place is close to you it might be of some help http://www.fxsupply.com/


Tom

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My, my, my. Such a lot of guns around town and so few brains.
1/28/2006, 7:36 pm Link to this post Send Email to clevelandfx   Send PM to clevelandfx
 
PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


They're about 20 miles up the interstate from me. I got the latex for my cape from them. Thanks guys. :)

Hopefully, when I have some dough, I'll be cranking out a few copies of this(and a yet to be built gun to go with it).


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Patrick
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1/28/2006, 8:14 pm Link to this post Send Email to PatrickJ   Send PM to PatrickJ
 
Proximo Profile
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Registered: 12-2004
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


Oh god, i hate 2 piece silicone molds.
Basically because i suck making the mold wall so both halfs looks more like something you puke then a nice 2 piece mold whit a box form :lol
1/28/2006, 9:10 pm Link to this post Send PM to Proximo
 
PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


Well... my mold wall for my chest logo looked like several "kids" I dropped off at the "pool". :rollin

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1/28/2006, 9:22 pm Link to this post Send Email to PatrickJ   Send PM to PatrickJ
 
clevelandfx Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Cleveland, Oh
Posts: 1891
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Re: question for clevelandfx(case molding tutorial)


smooth perpendicular walls reduce seams, seams suck, so therefore you should use smooth perpendicular walls.

Don't worry, I have a couple molds that I won't show, ever! Most of my glove molds are pretty bad, but get the job done, so I can live with them. That link BB posted has nice pics of what you want a wall to look like. Stick with it and you'll get good.

Tom


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1/28/2006, 10:44 pm Link to this post Send Email to clevelandfx   Send PM to clevelandfx
 


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