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Evilgenius Batarang Mold - Instructions & Diagrams


Hey everyone,
Been away for a few days and finally got things together to continue the progress on the batarang for Evilgenius.
The master was finally cleaned up and ready to be commited to an open back silicone mold.
The following is a brief how to on the process of making this very simple mold.
In the first picture we see that the original master has been adhered to a cardboard backing with CA/super glue.
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Once the piece is firmly adhered to the backing I use a clay referred to as "Clean Clay" available
from Silpak inc. This clay will not react with the silicone that the mold will be made from, as most
oil based clays have a tendency to produce a noxious chemical reaction to silicone and can also
ruin the mold.I use this to make sure that there are no areas of the master which will
allow silcone to seep underneath. This can also be used to fill any small imperfections in the master.
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The next step is to put up the mold retainer walls. Many materials can be used to make your
mold walls, the best ive found is foam core board, but for the purposes of this quick and cheap
mold I am just usiing cardboard. Hot glue is used to glue the mold walls to the backing board.
I like to make my mold walls at least 1/2 inch from the master so as to prevent warpage
from the weight of the resin that will be cast into the piece. You can make thinner closer
molds to save materials but over years I have learned that the slightly thicker mold wall allows
for better strength of the mold shape and also gives some material for the heat from the curing
resin someplace to go and will make your mold actually last longer.
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Once I am satisfied that there is enough hot glue around the mold walls base so as to insure
that nothing will leak out, I mix and pour the silicone. Make sure to use gloves and be familiar
with your materials safety data sheet when working with this and any other potentially
hazardous material. Silicone can quite easily absorb into your skin and in some cases cause
massive allergic reactions.I make sure to pour enough silicone to completely cover the top
of the master about 1/4 inch thicker than the actual piece. Again this is for support and to make
a strong durable mold that will last.
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Once the mold is cured I remove the outer retainer walls.
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The silicone mold can now be seperated from the master. Spray release is used on the inside
of the mold and the resin can now be mixed and poured into the mold! This mold should yield
many copies and last for several months under fairly regular careful use.
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Thats all for now, next up will be painting!

Last edited by Deadly Lemur, 3/6/2006, 2:18 am


---
Mike Logan Schiffbauer
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Dragonfyredesigns@verizon.net
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"The hardest thing in this life, is to live in it." Buffy the Vampire Slayer , Once More With Feeling
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


How come I have a funny feeling it would not work quite like that in my hands :huh

Nice Job :up

---
...for every human being there is a diversity of existances...the single existance is itself an illusion...
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


No mother mold? I hope the table you did the mold on was level.

Jonathan


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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


No mother mold is necessary for an open backed mold. Yes I did make sure that my table was perfectly level.

---
Mike Logan Schiffbauer
Dragonfyredesigns.org
Dragonfyredesigns@verizon.net
Resinhunter1@yahoo.com
"The hardest thing in this life, is to live in it." Buffy the Vampire Slayer , Once More With Feeling
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Mike,
Thats really nice that you're sharing this with everyone. This is what costuming is all about in my opinion... helping each other out and sharing tricks of the trade.

Thanks a bunch!!!! You have no idea how much simple pics can help!!! emoticon :cheers
 emoticon

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


great tutorial man thanks :up

o and that is one good lookig batarang :up

---
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Once again wicked job Mike... eI'll email you soon to discuss other details... your work is impecable.. I may have to rewrite some script to give the rang some more screen time emoticon... maybe just a 30 second montage of michael bay (no I'm not a fan) style shots emoticon


Great work... we'll talk soon.

Cheers...


J.

---

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


What's a mother mold?

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Patrick
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


As Jack Nicholson would say, those are some "wonderful toys" A+ all the way Mike :up

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Lookin' god Mike!
Hey EG, can I get one of those babies?


---
You don't choose the Bat, the Bat chooses you.
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


I'm like AlterEgo, the last pic would be the ambulance crew wheeling me out with green goopy stuff all over me and blood coming out of my eyes emoticon
Awesone 'rang Mike, dying to see the finished product, and your tutorial was so good it almost made me want to try. Almost.

 :signal

---
"Clearly a man who dresses like a bat has issues"

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


EG, if you decide to hook Brin up with one, hook me up as well. :pray

Last edited by PatrickJ, 4/8/2005, 12:51 am


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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Very nice, thanks for the step-by-step with illustration. :up

---
~Heather~

Buffy: Giles, are you breaking up with your car?
Giles: Well, it did seduce me, all red and sporty!
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


thanks for this - i'm trying my first bat pour this weekend and you reminded me to replace the filters in my mask.

Oh, and damn those look good. great design by EG and flawlessly executed.

PS: DL - powerpuff batgirl av, thats too funny.
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


You make it look easy. Well, it really isn't that bad once you do it.

Excellent job on that. Can't wait to see the rest of the stuff done up.

Tom

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Great tutorial and awesome rangs. Very nice of you to share!!!
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Thanks for the positive feedback everyone, and thanks again to Evilgenius for his inspiring design. I will do a thread on painting the batarang and then move on to doing some of the other Bat Arsenal pieces that EG has designed.

---
Mike Logan Schiffbauer
Dragonfyredesigns.org
Dragonfyredesigns@verizon.net
Resinhunter1@yahoo.com
"The hardest thing in this life, is to live in it." Buffy the Vampire Slayer , Once More With Feeling
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


That's some good stuff. :up
How to's and tutorials are the meat and potatoes of what this site is all about.


John :flapbat

---
"Wile E. Coyote is my reality,Bugs Bunny is my goal."

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Man thats to kool always good to see this stuff

---
EMAIL: kris@hellskitchencc.com

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CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEB SITE
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


So cool! this really helps me out alot.
Nice looking rang dude! :up

My resin will probably arrive on monday.
And im gonna start making a 89rang in 1:1 scale out of clay first.
Can i mold that rang whit casting plaster? or do i have to get silicone?
But if i want to the mold whit casting plaster then i cant bake the clay right ? emoticon

 

Last edited by Proximo, 4/8/2005, 8:16 am
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


proximo - as i understand it a plaster mold is for flexible pulls (cowls etc made from flexible materials) but if the master object is going to be hard resin you will need a flexible mold - IE silicone.

If that makes any sense.
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Quote:

GoldenAge wrote:

proximo - as i understand it a plaster mold is for flexible pulls (cowls etc made from flexible materials) but if the master object is going to be hard resin you will need a flexible mold - IE silicone.

If that makes any sense.



Thanks...

But the casting plaster is really hard. like stone.. so if i would use it to cast a resin piece then i cant use the mold again because i have to brake it to get out the piece.. hmm

And silicone is the most expensive.. Isnt their any other way`? emoticon

How about if i bake the rang when i have sculpt everything... then i take soft clay roll it out so it gets thick as a real silicone mold should be. then just push down the rang? and pour in the resin.
Dont know if it could work, just a thought

 

Last edited by Proximo, 4/8/2005, 8:30 am
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


I doubt it would work, resin sticks to everything and silicone sticks to nothing (once dry) but again - I'm not the expert... I'd hold out for proper mold making material designed for resin: and DON'T cut corners on safety equipment.
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


To cut down on the amount of silicone you need, you could do a silicone matrix mold (basically a thin silicone mold with a plaster mother mold to keep the shape). Below is a link to the process. I wouldn't use a plaster mold to cast resin in. First, you'll have a tough time getting you rangs out of the rigid mold, and second, plaster is porous so it would need to be sealed before you could cast the rangs or they will never come out.

]Silicone Matrix Mold


Randy
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


a silicon mold exactly the way Mike has done it here is teh professional way to do this
the only change could be if the rang was two sided and you made a two piece mold

silicon may be a tad exspensive but its the best way really, and if your molding alot then you can chew up old molds and use that material in the new mold so you dont have to use so much silicon

the last ornately detailed piece we made got over 500 pieces poured and pulled from it before the mold burnt

you cant do that with plaster

the way mike has done this here that mold will pop a couple hundered rangs without blinking and the rangs will literally fall out of the mold when its cured ready for the next pour

---
" All Men By Nature Desire Knowledge "
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


WOW AMAZING Work!!! :up That design is awesome. I can’t wait to see what else you have in store us.
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Thanks for all help, I will get silicon to mold it.. i just started to work on the 89rang.. cuted out the shape.. im gonna take my time on this piece because i dont want a piece of crap when im molding it in the silicone.

Will keep you guys updated ofcourse when i start to come to that stage.
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


While I agree that silicone is the way to go for the mold, a silicone block mold (like Mike made) is not the only "professional" way to mold this piece. Since Proximo is looking to keep cost down, it might make more sense to do the matrix mold. You'll get the same results when casting your rangs at about 1/2 the cost of the block mold since you are using much less silicone. If cost isn't an issue then I'd go with the block mold since it's easier and faster to complete.

Randy

Last edited by RacerX45, 4/8/2005, 12:18 pm
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


While you don't have to make the mold as think as Mike did, if you're limiting your pulls, a thinner mold can and will tear, forcing you so remold. So better safe than sorry, I say.

Proximo,

You could go the hardware store route is you are in a pinch, ie 100% silicone caulking. It can be thinned down with mineral spirits. This may take longer to set up, as it air dries instead of curing like an RTV. It also can be stretchier. Try this with a plaster jacket to keep from warping. Worst case, you're out $6 per tube of caulking.

---
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


You could go with a case mold to cut down the materials costs.

[sign in to see URL]

or a glove mold. You would be making a glove mold if you choose to go with the caulking silicone. You first apply the silicone, then a plaster support shell so the silicone doesn't deform.

The case mold would work for you, and help keep costs down to a minimum. You know exactly how much silicone to mix up and pour into it since you measure the clay used to cover the rang before you make the support shell.

Tom

---
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