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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


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BatDemon wrote:

While you don't have to make the mold as think as Mike did, if you're limiting your pulls, a thinner mold can and will tear, forcing you so remold. So better safe than sorry, I say.

Proximo,

You could go the hardware store route is you are in a pinch, ie 100% silicone caulking. It can be thinned down with mineral spirits. This may take longer to set up, as it air dries instead of curing like an RTV. It also can be stretchier. Try this with a plaster jacket to keep from warping. Worst case, you're out $6 per tube of caulking.



What i understand from what you said BatDemon, Is that i could use silicone from hardware store that people uses to secure floor lists and so on in like bathrooms.
What i understand from what you wrote.. is i can use that to mold a piece..

I actually thought about that before but that silicon is like gele.. so it would be hard to use it i think.. COuld i use some licker to mix it up whit maybe?..

Hmm sorry for my english hope you guys understand..

I have the cash for real silicon mold stuff its just that my folks think its just like give money away... heh emoticon
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


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Proximo wrote:

So cool! this really helps me out alot.
Nice looking rang dude! emoticon

My resin will probably arrive on monday.
And im gonna start making a 89rang in 1:1 scale out of clay first.
Can i mold that rang whit casting plaster? or do i have to get silicone?
But if i want to the mold whit casting plaster then i cant bake the clay right ? emoticon

 



Hi Proximo,
You cant really do the 89 rang properly without using silicone. The rib detail would not be very sturdy in a stone mold and would most likely grab and lock on your master when you tried to remove the stone. Also stone limits your materials to cast into it. Silicone will flex and release your casting properly. As you can see from the other suggestions there are many ways to make an inexpensive mold that will work, rarely is there only one way to accomplish these things. Try the silicone caulk method mentioned in a previous post, give it plenty of time to air dry, poour a plaster jacket mold over that to help keep its shape. If you try this method it should only ccost you roughly 10 dollars in materials to make your mold. I cant stress enough how important it is for you to have a flexible mold however if you want the ribbing on the 89 rang to turn out right and not lock up into your mold.

Last edited by drgnfyre4, 4/8/2005, 2:40 pm


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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Hey drgnfyre4,

Thanks, But what to you think about that i talked to Batdamon about? COuld it work.. although that silicon is in geleform.. i could use something to smooth it out all over the piece.

My dad can take home free tubes whit that silicon from his work.. so i could try it...

But i will try it on a diffrent piece first.. like a small piece of clay..
 


Last edited by Proximo, 4/8/2005, 2:41 pm
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Silicone is the best way to go, who cares if it is expensive, it's better then pulling doodoo pieces from a mold that will get worse and worse each time you pull something. I have over 100 pulls from some of my silicone molds and they are still going strong. Oh and don't use no hardware store silicone, get some good silicone from either Hasting or Burmans etc.. emoticon

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


You can use silicone from a hardware store, as long as it's 100% silicone, I would also suggest you get the clear kind. You can add a LITTLE bit of mineral spirits to it so you can paint it onto the rang. After that first layer is on and gels up, you can add more to build up a good thickness. In a few days, or as long as it takes to harden and dry, you can then make a plaster shell over that.

You HAVE to use a mold release on your clay sculpture otherwise the hardware store silicone will stick to it. That type of silicone is made to stick.

Tom

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Could any of these molding materials be gotten at Michael's?

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


They have some molding materials at Michaels, but trust me when I say that you're not going to find really good molding, casting etc.. materials as you would at a plastics company like some of the ones mentioned (Hastings, Burmans, Smooth-on). My thoughts on it is, do it right the first time, so you don't have to keep doing it again and again.

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


another suggestion in materials for molding and cast besides the great ones just mentioned by **** is

BJB
and
Alumilite
and ofcourse
Freeman

all of them make really good stuff
and freemans has some video tutorials for those who need alittle extra visual help

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Burman is just a distributor for BJB products.

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Excellent, good info. I've heard of Smooth-on, but I just wasn't sure if anything of good quality was available at local craft shops. Thanks guys! emoticon

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


All of Bob Dullam's urethane pieces, including the Sonar suit that was just on e-bay, came from smooth-on. I will be making all of my urethane pieces, out of the Sonar and other molds I now own, with smooth-on products also, but I use BJB for almost everything else I make out of urethane.

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Oh and 1 more thing, in my opinion if you want to make your mold really nice and light, when doing a matrix mold, make a fiber glass jacket. A plaster jacket will easily break if something were to happen (like the accidental dropping) and won't stick to silicone as well. A keyed silicone mold with a fiber glass jacket will keep your mold nice and light and will be long lasting. Fiber glass is very inexpensive also. Just make sure to use a respirator, latex gloves and goggles. Don't want none of that gunk in your lungs, eyes or skin.

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


One thing that annoying me is here in Sweden we dont have many companys that have these stuff.. but as i said i found a online shop that are located in stockholm so i can order from them... ive order the resin from them.. they also have silicon molds.. but way to pricey for me at the moment.

Im gonna try one time whit that hardware silicon, But where can i get that "realise spray" or could i use some kind of oil? before adding the silicone..

Anway.. im gonna try some stuff tomorrow and hope it will work.. but if it aint works i will get the real good stuff your talking about... even though its expensive...



Last edited by Proximo, 4/8/2005, 7:57 pm
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


A quick question...
I've used RTV silicone once to make a mold of my 89 batarang and even though I tried to pour it slowly and not mix it too vigoursly I had air bubbles trapped in the silicone which transfered into my cast. Is the silicone you use more liquid-like as compared to a thicker liquid? I didn't like the cast and since I was raised in fiberglass I have made a couple molds out of fiberglass. It is very durable and rigid but with care you can get your casts out (as long as there are no undercuts). Just my two cents. Great thread guys. I really love the 'How to' type threads. Keep plugging away guys. You are an inspiration to everyone out their that wants to learn to do this craft.
Bill-El
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This was a great tutorial and I love the design of the Rang. Great job to Mike and EG.

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Yup... Looks easy when you do it... Good Looking 'Rang... Mind if I borrow some of the designs? I am going to try and have a buddy of mine cut this similar design out of steel and then cut it in half, and put a rubber strip on the back so I can flick it open, ala '89. Great looking stuff!!!

JCG

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Hey that's my design damn it! ... I think a little sucking up is in order here LOL... if you want to use the design I have two conditions.... 1. u don't use it in a film until mine is done... 2. everytime you flip it open you must say ' EvilGenius is my master' LOL emoticon

Good luck with the metal... I actuallly got an offer last night to have them CNC'd from metal.... If only I knew how to use CAD...

Cheers

Mates...

J.

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


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Proximo wrote:

Im gonna try one time whit that hardware silicon, But where can i get that "realise spray" or could i use some kind of oil? before adding the silicone..




Since you are trying to keep costs down and you aren't looking to take many pulls, the hardware method is your best option. COST being the main factor. Your mold will be different than a multipart RTV, but for what you want it'll work. And definately follow Tom's advise on using clear 100% silicone thinned down for your first layer. This'll help minimize air bubbles.

Bill-El,

You may have whipped the airbubles into the silcone when you were mixing it. Pros will use a vacuum chamber to draw the air bubbles out be for pouring. Also try pouring from a least 1 foot above the piece, this will help to get rid of air bubbles. The silicones are usually the consistancy of cake batter.


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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


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evilgenius wrote:

Hey that's my design damn it! ... I think a little sucking up is in order here LOL... if you want to use the design I have two conditions.... 1. u don't use it in a film until mine is done... 2. everytime you flip it open you must say ' EvilGenius is my master' LOL emoticon

Good luck with the metal... I actuallly got an offer last night to have them CNC'd from metal.... If only I knew how to use CAD...

Cheers

Mates...

J.




Hey, Bro, not a problem... While I DO want to be a film maker, I don't have ANY intentions of making a Bat film... I'll leave that to you guys who know what you are doing... emoticon I'm more of a horror fan film kinda guy my self... emoticon . So, no worries there. And if anyone asks, I will DEFINITELY let them know that the design wasn't mine... I wouldn't dare take credit for something that wasn't mine... Mine is basically for the purpose of scaring punks when they come up and smart off to me at the movie theater... Even though I don't THINK I'll be throwing it at anyone... I might just be provoked... Then, it's out of my control... emoticon Anyway, if you want me to go with a different design, that's no problem, I just saw this 'rang, and thought... "THAT IS SO COOL!!!" (Not unlike anything else of yours I've seen)... So, either way, I can respect your wishes. Thanks, and Take care, Bro!!!

JCG

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Hey Lewis... go ahead and use the design... I was just trying to be coy... gues I failed emoticon

Let me see it when you're done though...

Cheers

J

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I thought you were funny.. Enough sucking up?? send me a rang now.. emoticon

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


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evilgenius wrote:

Hey Lewis... go ahead and use the design... I was just trying to be coy... gues I failed emoticon

Let me see it when you're done though...

Cheers

J



Nah, I understand, you were coy, so it's all good... I doubt mine'll have as much detail as yours, but like I said, I REALLY liked the design of it so I just thought I'd give 'er a shot... I will definitely post when I have it done. I don't know anything about steel work (A buddy of mine does it for me when I need it), so we'll see how easy it is to cut out. It's all good... Can't wait to see your whole suit when it's done. Like I said before, I REALLY like the design of your Bat. Take care, Bro!!!

JCG



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