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Caped Crusader
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


proximo - as i understand it a plaster mold is for flexible pulls (cowls etc made from flexible materials) but if the master object is going to be hard resin you will need a flexible mold - IE silicone.

If that makes any sense.
4/8/2005, 8:16 am Link to this post Send Email to GoldenAge   Send PM to GoldenAge
 
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Caped Crusader
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Quote:

GoldenAge wrote:

proximo - as i understand it a plaster mold is for flexible pulls (cowls etc made from flexible materials) but if the master object is going to be hard resin you will need a flexible mold - IE silicone.

If that makes any sense.



Thanks...

But the casting plaster is really hard. like stone.. so if i would use it to cast a resin piece then i cant use the mold again because i have to brake it to get out the piece.. hmm

And silicone is the most expensive.. Isnt their any other way`? :banghead

How about if i bake the rang when i have sculpt everything... then i take soft clay roll it out so it gets thick as a real silicone mold should be. then just push down the rang? and pour in the resin.
Dont know if it could work, just a thought

 

Last edited by Proximo, 4/8/2005, 8:30 am
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Caped Crusader
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


I doubt it would work, resin sticks to everything and silicone sticks to nothing (once dry) but again - I'm not the expert... I'd hold out for proper mold making material designed for resin: and DON'T cut corners on safety equipment.
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Apprentice
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


To cut down on the amount of silicone you need, you could do a silicone matrix mold (basically a thin silicone mold with a plaster mother mold to keep the shape). Below is a link to the process. I wouldn't use a plaster mold to cast resin in. First, you'll have a tough time getting you rangs out of the rigid mold, and second, plaster is porous so it would need to be sealed before you could cast the rangs or they will never come out.

]Silicone Matrix Mold


Randy
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


a silicon mold exactly the way Mike has done it here is teh professional way to do this
the only change could be if the rang was two sided and you made a two piece mold

silicon may be a tad exspensive but its the best way really, and if your molding alot then you can chew up old molds and use that material in the new mold so you dont have to use so much silicon

the last ornately detailed piece we made got over 500 pieces poured and pulled from it before the mold burnt

you cant do that with plaster

the way mike has done this here that mold will pop a couple hundered rangs without blinking and the rangs will literally fall out of the mold when its cured ready for the next pour

---
" All Men By Nature Desire Knowledge "
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


WOW AMAZING Work!!! :up That design is awesome. I can’t wait to see what else you have in store us.
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Caped Crusader
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Thanks for all help, I will get silicon to mold it.. i just started to work on the 89rang.. cuted out the shape.. im gonna take my time on this piece because i dont want a piece of crap when im molding it in the silicone.

Will keep you guys updated ofcourse when i start to come to that stage.
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Apprentice
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


While I agree that silicone is the way to go for the mold, a silicone block mold (like Mike made) is not the only "professional" way to mold this piece. Since Proximo is looking to keep cost down, it might make more sense to do the matrix mold. You'll get the same results when casting your rangs at about 1/2 the cost of the block mold since you are using much less silicone. If cost isn't an issue then I'd go with the block mold since it's easier and faster to complete.

Randy

Last edited by RacerX45, 4/8/2005, 12:18 pm
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Caped Crusader
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


While you don't have to make the mold as think as Mike did, if you're limiting your pulls, a thinner mold can and will tear, forcing you so remold. So better safe than sorry, I say.

Proximo,

You could go the hardware store route is you are in a pinch, ie 100% silicone caulking. It can be thinned down with mineral spirits. This may take longer to set up, as it air dries instead of curing like an RTV. It also can be stretchier. Try this with a plaster jacket to keep from warping. Worst case, you're out $6 per tube of caulking.

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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


You could go with a case mold to cut down the materials costs.

[sign in to see URL]

or a glove mold. You would be making a glove mold if you choose to go with the caulking silicone. You first apply the silicone, then a plaster support shell so the silicone doesn't deform.

The case mold would work for you, and help keep costs down to a minimum. You know exactly how much silicone to mix up and pour into it since you measure the clay used to cover the rang before you make the support shell.

Tom

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My, my, my. Such a lot of guns around town and so few brains.
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