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Proximo Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 12-2004
Posts: 4383
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Quote:

BatDemon wrote:

While you don't have to make the mold as think as Mike did, if you're limiting your pulls, a thinner mold can and will tear, forcing you so remold. So better safe than sorry, I say.

Proximo,

You could go the hardware store route is you are in a pinch, ie 100% silicone caulking. It can be thinned down with mineral spirits. This may take longer to set up, as it air dries instead of curing like an RTV. It also can be stretchier. Try this with a plaster jacket to keep from warping. Worst case, you're out $6 per tube of caulking.



What i understand from what you said BatDemon, Is that i could use silicone from hardware store that people uses to secure floor lists and so on in like bathrooms.
What i understand from what you wrote.. is i can use that to mold a piece..

I actually thought about that before but that silicon is like gele.. so it would be hard to use it i think.. COuld i use some licker to mix it up whit maybe?..

Hmm sorry for my english hope you guys understand..

I have the cash for real silicon mold stuff its just that my folks think its just like give money away... heh :grumble
4/8/2005, 2:31 pm Link to this post Send PM to Proximo
 
drgnfyre4 Profile
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Apprentice

Registered: 02-2005
Posts: 167
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


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Proximo wrote:

So cool! this really helps me out alot.
Nice looking rang dude! :up

My resin will probably arrive on monday.
And im gonna start making a 89rang in 1:1 scale out of clay first.
Can i mold that rang whit casting plaster? or do i have to get silicone?
But if i want to the mold whit casting plaster then i cant bake the clay right ? :help

 



Hi Proximo,
You cant really do the 89 rang properly without using silicone. The rib detail would not be very sturdy in a stone mold and would most likely grab and lock on your master when you tried to remove the stone. Also stone limits your materials to cast into it. Silicone will flex and release your casting properly. As you can see from the other suggestions there are many ways to make an inexpensive mold that will work, rarely is there only one way to accomplish these things. Try the silicone caulk method mentioned in a previous post, give it plenty of time to air dry, poour a plaster jacket mold over that to help keep its shape. If you try this method it should only ccost you roughly 10 dollars in materials to make your mold. I cant stress enough how important it is for you to have a flexible mold however if you want the ribbing on the 89 rang to turn out right and not lock up into your mold.

Last edited by drgnfyre4, 4/8/2005, 2:40 pm


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Mike Logan Schiffbauer
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"The hardest thing in this life, is to live in it." Buffy the Vampire Slayer , Once More With Feeling
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Proximo Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 12-2004
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Hey drgnfyre4,

Thanks, But what to you think about that i talked to Batdamon about? COuld it work.. although that silicon is in geleform.. i could use something to smooth it out all over the piece.

My dad can take home free tubes whit that silicon from his work.. so i could try it...

But i will try it on a diffrent piece first.. like a small piece of clay..
 


Last edited by Proximo, 4/8/2005, 2:41 pm
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Jants Profile
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Registered: 02-2004
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Silicone is the best way to go, who cares if it is expensive, it's better then pulling doodoo pieces from a mold that will get worse and worse each time you pull something. I have over 100 pulls from some of my silicone molds and they are still going strong. Oh and don't use no hardware store silicone, get some good silicone from either Hasting or Burmans etc.. :wink

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clevelandfx Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Cleveland, Oh
Posts: 1891
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


You can use silicone from a hardware store, as long as it's 100% silicone, I would also suggest you get the clear kind. You can add a LITTLE bit of mineral spirits to it so you can paint it onto the rang. After that first layer is on and gels up, you can add more to build up a good thickness. In a few days, or as long as it takes to harden and dry, you can then make a plaster shell over that.

You HAVE to use a mold release on your clay sculpture otherwise the hardware store silicone will stick to it. That type of silicone is made to stick.

Tom

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My, my, my. Such a lot of guns around town and so few brains.
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PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Could any of these molding materials be gotten at Michael's?

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Patrick
http://www.facebook.com/patrick.price1


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Jants Profile
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Registered: 02-2004
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


They have some molding materials at Michaels, but trust me when I say that you're not going to find really good molding, casting etc.. materials as you would at a plastics company like some of the ones mentioned (Hastings, Burmans, Smooth-on). My thoughts on it is, do it right the first time, so you don't have to keep doing it again and again.

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mrbats Profile
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Registered: 02-2004
Posts: 1681
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


another suggestion in materials for molding and cast besides the great ones just mentioned by janty is

BJB
and
Alumilite
and ofcourse
Freeman

all of them make really good stuff
and freemans has some video tutorials for those who need alittle extra visual help

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" All Men By Nature Desire Knowledge "
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Jants Profile
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Banned user

Registered: 02-2004
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Burman is just a distributor for BJB products.

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PatrickJ Profile
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Caped Crusader

Registered: 01-2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Re: Batarang Mold, a how to guide


Excellent, good info. I've heard of Smooth-on, but I just wasn't sure if anything of good quality was available at local craft shops. Thanks guys! :)

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Patrick
http://www.facebook.com/patrick.price1


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