sin03
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Registered: 08-2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 986
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Begins Fin Molding Question
Hey Bro's,
This is what I'm working on:
As you can see I have made a "base" for all three fins to sit on (they are too thin on the bottom for directly attaching to my arm guard).I've talked with a few people about this but I am still a little unsure, and after looking through the archives I'm still no further along.
My question: is it wise to construct a mold box and do a pourable mold (using Smooth-on Oomoo 30) for these? In my own thinking this would make it impossible to remove the casting once cured (the fins are very rigid after all). I should make very clear that I want to end up with one piece (all 3 fins on a shared based).
If not, how would I go about doing this?
Thanks,
Jason.
Last edited by TheKingaSwing, 11/29/2011, 6:17 am
---
Current Project:
Gauntlets: http://www.runboard.com/bbrotherhoodofthebat.f4.t204452
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3/10/2009, 8:56 pm
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Kbillan
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Registered: 09-2007
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Re: A Molding Question
I would probably just use a sil thickener and paint/glop it on.. mold box seems like more work, and wasted material.
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http://www.runboard.com/bthecave
Typing from an Ipad- ignore spelling and grammatical errors..
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3/10/2009, 9:05 pm
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sin03
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Re: A Molding Question
Thanks bro,
Two more questions:
1)Can that be done with oomoo 30 or do I need something like moldmax?
2)Will the mold require a support shell (ie. Plasti-paste)?
Jason.
---
Current Project:
Gauntlets: http://www.runboard.com/bbrotherhoodofthebat.f4.t204452
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3/10/2009, 9:10 pm
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drftfan
Registered: 10-2006
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Re: A Molding Question
Keith has been doing molds for awhile. The positive of doing a mold box is when the silcone is dry you will have a mold that will hold its own weight.
So then you can just pour in the resin or the urethane.
Either way if you get moldmax 30 it should pull ot of the mold just fine.
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3/10/2009, 9:20 pm
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sin03
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Re: A Molding Question
Thanks drtfan,
That's the reason why I wanted to do a large block mold (via mold box) but my concern was that given how rigid the fins are I won't be able to get the resin copy out of the mold once cured. I was under the impression that moldmax had to be painted on and that oomoo was what you used for doing pour molds (which makes it "stiff" and useable without a support shell).
Jason.
---
Current Project:
Gauntlets: http://www.runboard.com/bbrotherhoodofthebat.f4.t204452
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3/10/2009, 9:24 pm
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sin03
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Re: A Molding Question
Just did some reading up on moldmax 30 - won't work for me because I don't have a gram scale. They recommend using oomoo in its place - grrr lol. Any more advice?
Jason.
---
Current Project:
Gauntlets: http://www.runboard.com/bbrotherhoodofthebat.f4.t204452
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3/10/2009, 9:34 pm
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bat texan
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Registered: 11-2007
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Re: A Molding Question
Hey, FYI, I got a gram scale from Target for about $30. I used it to do my moldmax 30 silicone mold for my Jim Lee sculpt---worked great! The moldmax 30 is pretty flexible, so I think it would work fine in a mold box---just my opinion, of course. 
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Tom: tdtnx01@yahoo.com OR bat.texan@yahoo.com ; www.facebook.com/TheBatTexan
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3/10/2009, 9:45 pm
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drftfan
Registered: 10-2006
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Re: A Molding Question
I think the moldmax is great. My TDK is made out of it.
As well as my belt acc.
get a gram scale. You wont be sorry.
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3/10/2009, 9:55 pm
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Kbillan
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Re: A Molding Question
I use mm30 exclusively.. youll get your parts out.. its very flexible..
gram scales can be found anywhere- cheaply.
dont know about ooomooo.
Mold box would make it stand on its own.. but unless your making many many parts.. dont see the point.. I thought i read you just wanted a couple copies? but either way..
I might even do the thicken/clop on... then put it in a mold box///
MM30 pours just fine too! You can buy thinner or thickener for it depending on what your needs..
Keith
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Typing from an Ipad- ignore spelling and grammatical errors..
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3/10/2009, 10:21 pm
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The Kreator
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Re: A Molding Question
I was concerned about getting my fins out after doing a similar moldbox with OOMOO 25, but they actually do come out pretty easy. The mold flexes nicely, and you an actually get your fingers around the resin and gently wiggle it out without worry of tearing (as long as it's thick enough on the sides. With a proper mold box (for example, with wood), once the OOMOO is cured, you can simply flip the cube over and then the box holds it in place when you're pouring the resin too.
The only concern I'd have with painting the silicon on is that you get a very uneven blob of a mold which will require something else to keep it's shape and level it for when it's time to pour resin. A support shell of some kind is required, but it also needs a flat base. You could always build a simple mold box around the sculpt once covered with brushed on silicone, then fill around it with hydrocal or just plain plaster. That would give you the stability of a solid cube, without wasting as much silicone. I've only tried this on a small scale test and it worked great, but it wouldn't be as practical on larger items.
--- -David
TK/SL-8992
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3/11/2009, 1:05 am
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